How to repair a mixer with your own hands

2024 Author: Malcolm Clapton | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-17 03:44

Find out how to fix all types of leaks and solve the problem of low pressure.

How the mixer works

Despite the variety of designs and materials, all mixers have the same design. On one side of the body, hot and cold water hoses are supplied, and on the other there is a movable or stationary spout with an aerator and one or two handles for controlling the water supply.

Outwardly, the difference lies in the number of valves. In single-lever models, the water pressure is adjusted by lifting the handle, and the temperature by turning it left-right. In two-valve, the flow is adjusted by unscrewing the flywheel, while the temperature is changed by opening one or another valve more or less.

The key difference is the shut-off device that blocks the water: in one-handle mixers it is a cartridge, in two-valve mixers - rubber or sintered faucet-axle boxes. In cartridges, the flow is blocked by a pair of ceramic plates, in valve-axles, the same or a rubber gasket is used.

Why does the mixer break

Except for the aerators clogged with deposits and debris, all mixer malfunctions are associated with the locking mechanism. Such breakdowns are easily eliminated by replacing cartridges or crane-axle boxes assembled, however, if desired or necessary, the parts can be simply repaired.

Most often, malfunctions occur due to the poor quality of devices, as well as due to premature wear of oil seals, gaskets and other sealing materials from exposure to hard water.

How to disassemble a mixer for repair

To fix any malfunction, you will have to disassemble the mixer in order to gain access to the problem parts. It is not so difficult.

Single lever models

1. Stop the water supply to the mixer and turn on the tap to release pressure and drain any residues.
2. Place a rag in the sink so as not to damage its surface with the tool and not to lose small parts that have accidentally fallen.
3. Use a thin screwdriver to pry the plug on the handle and look at the type of fastening screw under it: it can be for a screwdriver or for a 3 mm hexagon.
4. Using a suitable tool, loosen the screw and remove the handle by pulling it up. If it doesn’t give in, gently rock it from side to side.
5. Unscrew the decorative nut by hand. On older mixers, you may first need to moisten it well with vinegar or WD-40 to dissolve the limescale.
6. Using a 27 or 30 mm wrench, unscrew and remove the cartridge jam nut. If not, it is better to use a socket wrench or head. If necessary, pre-fill the nut with vinegar, citric acid or WD-40.
7. Pull the cartridge toward you and remove it.
8. Assembly is carried out upside-down.
9. To remove the aerator, find the two beveled edges on the body and unscrew the part with an adjustable wrench.
10. To remove the spout, unscrew the nut on it and pull it towards you.

Two-valve models

1. Turn the taps at the inlet to the mixer and open it to relieve pressure and remove any remaining water.
2. Plug the drain, or rather put a rag in the sink. This will prevent parts from falling down the drain and keep the surface from scratching.
3. Use a knife or other thin object to hook the plugs on the handles and pull them out. On some models, these covers are threaded and unscrew counterclockwise.
4. Use a screwdriver to unscrew the fixing screws and then remove the handles. If they cannot be removed, pry them under the jaws of the key and press in a lever manner. Additionally moisten the stem threads with vinegar, citric acid or WD-40. In extreme cases, the handles can be broken and replaced with new ones (they are commercially available).
5. Using an adjustable wrench, unscrew the crane-axles and remove them from their places. If it doesn’t work, fill the threads with any descaling liquid and let it sit for a while. When unscrewing, hold the mixer body with a second wrench, wrapping it with a rag.
6. Reassemble everything in reverse order after repair.
7. To remove the aerator, unscrew it counterclockwise with an adjustable wrench.
8. To remove the swivel spout, unscrew the nut on it and gently pull it towards you.

How to fix common breakdowns of mixers

Poor water flow

The main reason for unstable pressure, especially if the problem is observed only on one of the mixers in the house, is a clogged aerator mesh. This device is located at the end of the spout and cuts the stream, saturating it with air, which saves water and eliminates splashes. Over time, the aerator becomes clogged with rust, various deposits, and then the water begins to pour out in a thin stream or splash to the side.

Method 1. Clean the mesh

There are two types of aerators: with external and internal threads. The former are screwed onto the spout itself, the latter are screwed into it.

Remove the male divider by simply turning it counterclockwise by hand. If it doesn't work, try wrapping the case with a rag or using a pipe wrench, but without fanaticism. Unscrew the part with an internal thread with an adjustable or open-end wrench, gripping the two flat edges on the body.

In advanced cases, first clean the threads from limescale and other deposits. To do this, wrap a cloth soaked in vinegar or citric acid around the aerator. You can pour liquid into the cap from a plastic bottle, put it on the divider and, after wrapping it with tape, leave it for 20-30 minutes.

After removing the aerator, disassemble it by prying the mesh and plastic insert with a sharp knife or a thin screwdriver. Place the parts in a container of vinegar for 15–20 minutes, then clean with an old toothbrush and rinse under running water.

Assemble everything in the reverse order: insert the nets into the aerator body, and then install it into the spout, screwing it in by hand and tightening it just a little bit with a wrench.

Method 2. Replace the aerator

If you don't feel like bothering, you can simply replace the divider with a new one, especially if you have one at hand. The part is inexpensive, and you can always keep a few spare parts for such cases. Simply unscrew the aerator as described above and replace with a new one.

Water leaks down the spout

On faucets with swivel spout, this connection is sealed with a rubber ring. Over time, it wears out, ceases to seal the knot, and in this place it begins to drip, and then water leaks. The problem is solved by replacing this very ring, which costs a penny and is sold in repair kits for fixing mixers.

Swivel spouts can be divided into two types. In some, the "gander" is screwed to the mixer with a nut or inserted into it and fixed with a screw. In others, it is a movable part of the body and requires dismantling the mixer to be removed.

On models with a nut, unscrew it by hand or with a wrench and pull it towards you. Pre-soak the compound jammed from scale in vinegar or citric acid. Next, pry the rubber ring with an awl or other thin object and pull it out. Pick up a similar one in the store, replace and reassemble everything in the reverse order.

If there is no suitable ring at hand, you can wind one or two turns of plumbing thread or FUM-tape into the groove where it lies - this will increase the diameter of the gasket, it will fit more tightly and give the necessary tightness.

The mixer, where the spout is the lower part of the body, will have to be removed from the sink for repair. How to do this is described in detail in this article. In short, turn off the water, remove the flexible pipes and then the mounting bracket or nuts and pull out the mixer.

Next, unscrew the decorative nut by hand that holds the rotating spout. You may have to soak the limescale with vinegar or citric acid and resort to using an adjustable wrench, wrapping its sponges with a rag or rubber. Remove the PTFE washer and remove the spout by pulling it towards you.

Pry off the two rubber rings and replace with new ones. Do not confuse: both gaskets should face the wider part of the cone towards each other. Reassemble everything in reverse order.

You can also wind a couple of turns of FUM tape or plumbing thread into the grooves of the elastic bands. This will make the gaskets thicker and prevent leakage.

The handle broke

There are tons of inexpensive universal flywheels on the market that are suitable for all types of cartridges and valve boxes. The selection and replacement of handles is not particularly difficult.

The main difficulty is to remove the broken handle. And even then not always, but only on old and cheap mixers. And here vinegar or citric acid come to the rescue, dissolving plaque. In extreme cases, you can try to gently break the handle by crushing it with a key.

Pry off the decorative plug, unscrew the fixing screw and remove the flywheel. Buy a new one from the store, using the broken one as a sample, and install it in place.

How to repair single lever mixers

Water flows from under the handle

This leakage occurs due to the loose pressing of the cartridge to the inner surface of the mixer body. The reason is wear and limescale deposits. In such cases, tightening the clamping nut sometimes saves. If this does not help, then replacing the cartridge solves the problem.

Method 1: Tighten the cartridge nut

Disassemble the mixer. Remove its handle and decorative nut. Take an adjustable wrench (or preferably a socket or head) and try to tighten the brass nut in the body. Do not overdo it so as not to break it or the cartridge itself. After each attempt, turn on the water and check for leaks.

Method 2. Change the cartridge

If tightening the nut does not work, all that remains is to replace the cartridge. This is done simply: you just need to disassemble the mixer, buy a new element in the store according to its article number or use the old one as a sample, and then insert a new cartridge and assemble the structure in the reverse order.

Water does not completely block off, handle sticks or squeaks

Typical malfunctions of single-lever mixers: the handle moves tightly and squeaks, and when closed, the water continues to drip or flow in a thin stream. All these problems are caused by wear of the cartridge mechanism and can only be solved by replacing it.

If you wish, of course, you can disassemble the part, clean the plaque and lubricate the mechanism - this will prolong its life for some time. But the cartridge is considered a consumable and is inexpensive, so it is easier and faster to replace it with a new one.

How to repair two-valve mixers

Faucets with two handles differ depending on which valve-axles are installed in them. It is quite simple to determine this: if the flywheel rotates only a quarter or half of a turn, the axle box is sintered, if for several turns it is threaded.

All malfunctions of two-valve mixers can be easily solved by replacing the valve-boxes. Fortunately, breakdowns occur due to the production of washers and rubber bands, which will not be difficult to fix.

Like cartridges, crane axles are inexpensive and sold at any hardware store. If you don't want to bother, just replace them. If you want to tinker a little and feel like a real plumber, try to fix the part. This is not difficult.

Sintered crane-axle boxes

Water does not completely shut off

The construction of the crane-axle box contains a fluoroplastic washer, which is used as a gasket between the metal parts of the axle box. Over time, it wears off and becomes thinner. From this, the stem rises up, the gap between the ceramic plates increases and water continues to flow, even if they are closed. Replacing the washer with a thicker one can completely solve the problem.

Method 1. Replace the washer

Disassemble the mixer and remove the valve-box. Remove the rubber band and take out the ceramic pair. Use a screwdriver or other thin object to pry the stopper on top of the crane-axle box and pull out the stem. A thin white washer is the very part that needs to be replaced.

For this, you can use any materials at hand. Here are the most popular and proven options that can serve as a replacement:

• Copper washer 10 × 13 × 1 mm or 10 × 14 × 1 mm (they are sold in auto dealerships and on).
• A ring bent from a wire 1 mm thick (can be taken from a single-core copper cable with a cross-section of 0.75 mm²).
• A plastic ring cut with a sharp knife from a spool of thread or a disposable syringe with a volume of 2 or 3 ml.

Put an improvised washer on the stem, assemble the valve-axle in the reverse order and install it into the mixer. A wire or plastic ring will last six months or a year, and a copper washer will last, one might say, forever.

Method 2. Change the crane-axle assembly

Disassemble the mixer, take out the old crane-box and pick up the same in the store. Install the new part in its proper place and reassemble everything in the reverse order.

Water flows from under the flywheel

Leaks not from the mixer itself, but from under its handle indicate wear of the O-rings - they have become thinner and allow water to pass through the stem. There are three ways out: replace the crane-axle box assembly, change only the rings or wind something under them.

Method 1. Replace rubber rings

Disassemble the mixer and valve-box as described above. Using an awl, screwdriver or other thin object, pry off the rings on the stem and replace them with new ones. You can find the same in repair kits for mixers or removed from metal-plastic pipe fittings.

Assemble the valve-axle box in reverse order and install it into the mixer. The leak will stop and the mechanism will function like new.

Method 2. Wind up the thread under the rings

Temporary or alternative solution: you can increase the diameter of the erased rubber bands by winding one or two turns of a thin strip of FUM-tape or plumbing thread on the grooves in which they are installed. Do not overdo it, otherwise the stem will not enter the body.

Method 3. Change the crane-axle box

Option for those who do not want to bother. Disassemble the mixer, take out the old crane-axle box, buy the same in the store, and then put it back in place and assemble the structure.

Threaded crane-axle boxes

Water does not completely shut off

In this type of valve-box, leakage is caused by abrasion or wear of the rubber gasket at the end of the stem. This leads to an increase in the gap between the seal and the body, which is why water continues to flow even in the closed position.

In addition to the universal solution in the form of replacing the assembly, you can correct the problem by installing a new gasket or flipping it to the other side.

Method 1. Replace the gasket

Disassemble the mixer and unscrew the valve-axle from the body. Remove the gasket from the stem and replace it with a new one from the repair kit. You can also cut the element out of thick rubber, such as a car tube.

Reinstall the valve-axle box and assemble the mixer in reverse order.

Method 2. Flip the gasket

Dismantle the mixer, take out the valve-box and disassemble it as described above. Flip the gasket so that it touches the body with the back, not erased side. Assemble the structure. This will allow the crane-axle box to work for some more time.

Method 3. Change the crane-axle assembly

Disassemble the valve and unscrew the valve-axle box from the body. Buy a new part from the store, using the old one as a sample, and reinstall it, assembling everything in reverse order.

Water flows from under the flywheel

The reason for this problem is the same as for sintered valves-axle boxes - wear of the stem O-rings. The solutions, respectively, are the same: installing new rings, winding the thread or completely replacing the locking knot.

How to repair shower head faucets

Bath mixers equipped with a shower head have the same faults as conventional models. The only exceptions are breakdowns of the watering can itself. They are usually caused by the destruction or wear of the packing glands and are solved by replacing them.

Breakdowns in faucets with tap-box switches can be corrected by replacing them. And in models with a removable switch - by the way, it is called a divertor - you can change it too. Corresponding parts are sold in stores and are affordable.

Water flows from under the divertor

A common variant of a leak is associated with a failure of the stem seals or valve-axle boxes due to deposits in the water and natural wear. This can be corrected by replacing the rubber bands or all assemblies.

Spool switch

This type of diverter is easily identified by a valve-like switch that must be pressed or pulled to redirect the flow between the mixer and shower.

Method 1. Replace oil seals

Close the valves on the mixer and remove the switch cap by unscrewing it counterclockwise. Unscrew the valve carefully and then the nut from below. Remove the stem with packing glands. Pick up the same in the store and install them in place of the old ones, smearing them with soap. Reinsert the stem and screw the valve into the mixer. Put on the cap and check the operation of the divertor.

Method 2. Replace the switch

If the diverter is removable, you can simply remove it by unscrewing the nut, pick up a similar one in a plumbing store and install it instead of the old one.

Swivel divertor

If the flow between the shower and the mixer is switched using a lever or handle that rotates around its own axis, you have a diverter with a faucet-axle box. In this case, you need to replace it.

Pry off the switch cover and remove the fixing screw with a screwdriver. Using an adjustable wrench, unscrew the valve-axle box from the mixer body and select a suitable analogue in the store. Install a new part, wrap it with a key and put on the switch. Secure it with the screw and replace the bezel plug.

Mixer and shower running simultaneously

Another breakdown of the switch, caused by worn seals or valve-boxes. It is corrected by replacing damaged elements - as described in the previous paragraph.