13 Beginner's Questions About Surfing

2024 Author: Malcolm Clapton | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-17 03:44

Life hacker talked about surfing with Nikita Zamekhovsky-Megalokardi, one of the most famous Russian surfers. We asked him questions that will be of interest to everyone who dreams of conquering the wave.

Life hacker talked about surfing with one of the most famous Russian surfers. Nikita teaches in Bali, wins major surfing competitions and knows everything about him. We asked him questions that will be of interest to everyone who dreams of conquering the wave.

What natural / weather conditions should be for successful surfing?

- There should definitely be waves. Water temperature is not important. The state of the atmosphere is not important. Rain, snow - it doesn't matter. It is desirable that there is no wind. But first of all, there should be constant, not storm, but post-storm waves, which are called swell, or swell. These sometimes happen in the Black Sea, sometimes in the Baltic, sometimes in the Sea of Azov. These are all the time in Kamchatka, often in the Sea of Japan. In Bali and Sri Lanka. It is generally comfortable to start surfing in the tropics.

How to choose the right board, what to look for? Do you need "magic" ornaments on the board?

- Before you start choosing a board, first learn how to ride a reliable student board at school. And when you learn to ride, the question will disappear by itself. Because the board is chosen depending on the level. Therefore, in order to start choosing a board, you need to know your skill level. Tell me what your level of skating is and I'll tell you what to look for.

Do you need magic crocodiles? You are not riding on an ornament or on a crocodile, but on a wave. Therefore, the ornament is the very last thing worth paying attention to.

Is it better to ride alone or with a company (by analogy with diving, where people dive only in pairs)?

- I prefer to ride alone. But if we are talking about big waves and very harsh conditions, or about a place that you do not know and where you are riding for the first time, then, of course, it is better to ride with your friends. People you can rely on.

Does a beginner surfer need special sports training?

- It shouldn't be special. Should be ordinary. What does it mean? This means that you just need to be in good physical shape. Not running to a state of hypodynamia, but vigorous, cheerful and playful, like a fur seal. No other preparation will help. Apart from surfing, surfing usually does not help anything. The ability to stay on the water is a priori, self-evident.

How old can you start surfing? And is there an age when to finish?

- From four to five years to start.

Paul Bragg died on a surfboard at 86. There are no restrictions.

Where are the most interesting surfing spots in the world?

- Where there are waves. There are the most interesting places for surfing.

Do different places differ in terms of difficulty?

- Undoubtedly. In brochures and on websites describing various spots around the world, there are always corresponding designations, where it is written: allsurfes, expireansurfes, proserfes and kamikaze.

Are ocean inhabitants such as sharks a danger to the surfer?

- Of course, the ocean inhabitants pose some danger to the surfer. Sharks are an aggressive part of these very inhabitants, they can attack a surfer, because a surfer lying and rowing on a board resembles a shark quite normal and habitual prey for it - a fur seal or a turtle. But still, the surfer is not, and therefore the shark will be the last to hunt the surfer. The shark does not eat people.

As for other marine life, it should definitely be remembered that the reef over which the advanced surfer rides is alive. Therefore, in no case should you get to the bottom.

What are the immutable safety rules (never, under no circumstances …)?

- Never, under any circumstances, should you forget your head on the shore.

Do not hold the board between the wave and yourself.

Do not start without looking around.

And what are some, if not the rules, but recommendations of experienced surfers for beginners?

- Before you find yourself in serious conditions, learn to work with conditions of average difficulty.

How long does it take to prepare before you can catch your first wave?

- It's a difficult question, because there are no average people. The average value in this case cannot be named. It all depends on the person, his motor skills and his physical data.

Do you need psychological preparation at a surfing school? What is the most basic and paramount thing you are trying to convey to the students?

- We unambiguously give instructions, we relax a person, introduce him to what he can expect in the ocean. Forewarned is forearmed. There is the concept of obstacle and there is the concept of fear. As soon as fear (something vague) is explained, it becomes just an obstacle. And the obstacle is easy to overcome.

What does the wave not forgive?

- The wave does not forgive self-confidence.

Finally

A small, but such a refreshing drop of sun, freedom and gorgeous mood ⤵