How to choose a laminate

2024 Author: Malcolm Clapton | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-17 03:44

A life hacker will help you determine the thickness, class, moisture resistance, the presence of chamfers and other important characteristics of the floor covering.

1. Decide on the class of operation

The key parameter that directly affects the life of the laminate is the class of operation or wear resistance. Depending on the nature of the premises, the flooring is divided into four types:

• Class 31 - low permeability and low loads (pantry, bedroom, meeting rooms, offices). The service life in domestic conditions is about 12 years, in commercial conditions - 2-3 years.
• Class 32 - average traffic and loads (corridors, living rooms, kitchens, offices). The service life in domestic conditions is about 15 years, in commercial conditions - 3-5 years.
• Class 33 - intensive traffic and loads (shops, cafes, hospitals). The service life in domestic conditions is about 20 years, in commercial conditions - 5–6 years.
• Class 34 - the most intensive traffic and loads (train stations, supermarkets, cinemas). The service life in domestic conditions is about 30 years, in commercial conditions - 7-15 years.

The higher the grade, the longer the coating will last. If you do not want to overpay, take the laminate one class higher than you need - this will be enough. The best option for a house or apartment is class 32. Such a floor covering is suitable for any room and has the necessary margin of safety.

If you plan to lay a more wear-resistant laminate only in the corridor and in the kitchen, and in other rooms you can get by with a cheaper option, then keep in mind that products from different manufacturers do not always combine well. Choose laminate from the same brand and be sure to have the same thickness.

2. Select thickness

There is a laminate on sale with a thickness of 4 to 14 mm. But unlike the class, the rule "the more the better" here works with some caveats.

Thick laminate is unambiguously stronger than thin laminate, has less stress on the interlocks and is less noisy when walking on it. Due to the slight deflection, it allows you to hide the drops in the base, while a thin coating will copy all the irregularities. At the same time, thin laminate heats up much faster, so it is preferable when installing a warm floor.

The optimum thickness is 8 mm. With proper preparation of the base in operation, such a laminate is in no way inferior to thicker and more expensive ones. In addition, it is suitable for arranging a warm floor.

3. Consider the board dimensions

Laminate flooring is available on the market in widths from 90 to 400 mm and lengths from 300 to 1,845 mm. Both parameters affect the installation process and the final appearance of the floor covering.

A narrow laminate is used to imitate parquet and planks, a wide one - for ceramic tiles. Longer panels give a more consistent coverage but are more difficult to install. The short ones look more advantageous due to the similarity to the array, but they have more joints.

Focus on the appearance and design requirements, but also consider the dimensions of the room. Long laminate flooring in a small room is inconvenient to work with, not to mention the amount of trimmings.

4. Think about moisture protection

In terms of moisture-proof properties, laminate, of course, cannot compete with tiles. Conventional panels are categorically incompatible with water. But if you choose a special coating, then it can easily be installed in the hallway, on the balcony and even in the bathroom. According to the type of protection against liquids, a moisture-resistant and water-resistant laminate is distinguished.

The first one differs from conventional panels by high-density base plates, moisture-proof treatment of the locking joints, and also antibacterial impregnation. Such a coating is not afraid of dampness, frequent contact with moisture and is suitable for the kitchen, corridor, hallway.

At the base of the waterproof laminate is a durable PVC board with air chambers that improve sound and thermal insulation. In addition to the wear-resistant top layer, it has a moisture-repellent and anti-slip coating. This laminate withstands direct contact with water and is well suited for the bathroom.

The weak point of the laminate is the joints. It is in them that moisture gets into; with prolonged contact, due to it, the plates swell. If there is little water and it is quickly removed, most likely, even ordinary laminate flooring will not suffer. If desired, you can treat the lamella locks with a special paste or sealant, and then any laminate will have moisture-proof properties.

5. Specify the type of locks

Modern laminate panels are held together using tongue-and-groove joints. They allow you to quickly assemble the floor and at the same time retain the ability to disassemble it if necessary. There are many varieties of such connections, but they can all be divided into Lock and Click.

Lock locks are the most common and affordable. On the one hand, the laminate board has a thorn, and on the other - a groove. When laying, the panels are hammered into each other with a mallet through a wooden spacer. Over time, these joints wear out from friction and gaps appear. Disassembling and reassembling such locks is quite problematic.

Click locks are an improved version without the flaws of the first. The spike here is in the shape of a hook and is fixed by inserting the panel at an angle and then pressing. These locks provide a stronger connection, a less visible joint, and the ability to reassemble. The downside is the high price due to the complexity of production.

6. Decide if you need chamfers

Most laminate flooring is made with solid, even edges, and after installation, the coating looks monolithic. Some manufacturers make bevels on the panels - small beveled edges at the edges. They clearly delineate the boards.

Chamfers are two-sided and four-sided. In the first case, only the side edges are processed and the laid lamellas look like a long board. In the second, decorative edges are made around the entire perimeter of the panels and on the floor they look like piece parquet boards.

According to the shape of the profile, the chamfers are divided into semicircular U-shaped and wedge-shaped V-shaped. Because these bevels are extruded, the strength of the coating and the protective layer on the bevels are fully retained. The depth of the grooves themselves is insignificant and amounts to 1–2 mm, so dust and dirt do not accumulate in them.

Beveled laminate flooring is visually richer and similar to solid wood. But this is an exclusively decorative element and it will not give any advantages in installation or operation. Due to the complexity of the processing of the edges, the chamfers on a cheap laminate are not as strong as those of well-known brands. Therefore, with a limited budget, it is better to consider traditional options without chamfers.

7. Pick up the drawing

When choosing a laminate design, be guided by your taste, however, there is also a nuance here. With rare exceptions, the decorative pattern imitates various types of wood from several planks. A laminate with a single-strip pattern looks most natural. The imitation of several small boards is suitable for small rooms, and in too spacious it will look artificial and inappropriate.

8. Make no mistake with the color

As a rule, laminate flooring is matched in color with interior doors. And since there is much less choice on the market, it is preferable to look for laminate flooring when the door has already been installed or at least purchased.

Finding perfectly matching doors and laminate flooring is almost impossible. Therefore, contrasting combinations are most often chosen: dark floors and light doors, or vice versa. Also remember that the skirting board should match the color of the door, as it is, in fact, an extension of the platband. If you choose a plinth to match the laminate, the border between the wall and the floor will turn out to be inexpressive.

9. Don't forget about the backing

The laminate is laid on a special backing that you also have to buy. It evens out differences in the base, distributes the load evenly and reduces walking noise. These pads are made from a variety of materials. Each has its own advantages and disadvantages.

• Expanded polypropylene - the most budgetary substrate. It well levels the differences in the base and is not afraid of moisture, but it sags and is not suitable for rooms with heavy loads. Sold in rolls.
• Extruded polystyrene foam - available backing. Withstands heavy loads, provides good thermal insulation and is not afraid of moisture. Sold in sheets.
• Wood fiber - expensive substrate. Eco-friendly, breathable material with excellent sound insulation properties. Sold in sheets.
• Natural cork - a very expensive substrate. Perfectly absorbs steps, soundproof the floor, and is resistant to mildew. Sold in rolls.

All substrates are available in several thicknesses. The optimal indicator is 2–5 mm. A thicker lining only makes sense when additional heat and sound insulation is needed.