INFOGRAPHICS: How to choose a suit by size?

Advice

1. General view. After putting on the suit, take the most natural position for yourself. Do not pull in your stomach and straighten your shoulders - you should see how the suit will sit in everyday life, and not in front of the mirror in the fitting room. Then raise your hands up, to the sides, walk a little. If your pants or jacket are holding you back, then you missed the model or size.

2. Shoulders. Jacket shoulders should not hang down or wrinkle. The sleeve seam should start exactly where the shoulder ends. If it hangs off your shoulder or, on the contrary, creates a "wave", then the jacket is either big or small for you.

3. Pants. The fit of the trousers should match the shape of your thighs. There are several nuances here. First, the waistline should always be in place, whether you are sitting or standing. Secondly, the folds of the trousers should correspond to the shape of the body - when you are just standing, the trousers should not wrinkle either in the front or in the back. Thirdly, the trousers should not "stick to" the hips too much (in a hipster way) - it will be uncomfortable to sit, and the people around will be aware of what kind of underwear you prefer. Fourth, the stepping line should be high enough so that there is no sagging. Otherwise, a "bloomer effect" will be created. Pants with a low armhole, of course, have the right to life, but not in a business suit.

4. Pants length. Pants are too long if the leg "lies" on the boot, forming a large fold. Pants are too short if the leg does not touch the shoe and socks are visible. Trousers are of the correct length, if the cuff of the leg rests slightly on the boot, forming a subtle elegant fold. Remember: if your size is not available, it is better to buy trousers a little longer - they can be folded up in the atelier.

5. Buttons. To check if your jacket is too small in girth, stand in front of a mirror and fasten one top button. A well-fitting single-breasted jacket has the lapels and hemlines neatly converging with each other, the button fastens loosely, without tension. If the jacket is too small for you, then an ugly fold in the shape of the letter "X" will form on your stomach, from under which a shirt will peep out from above and below, and the button will bulge, as if it’s about to come off. If the jacket is too big for you, then the floors will overlap, like a wraparound robe.

6. Sleeve length. The golden rule of the ratio of the length of the sleeve of the jacket and the length of the sleeve of the shirt is 1.5 cm. This is how the cuff of the shirt should "look out" from under the jacket. If the cuff is completely hidden, then the sleeve of the jacket is too long, if completely visible, it is too short. For shirts with short sleeves, use the wrist joint to determine the ideal sleeve length. The sleeve of the jacket should be slightly longer than the fold of the wrist.

7. Jacket length. The jacket should be long enough to cover the curves of the buttocks and short enough to reveal as much of the leg line as possible. There are two ways to determine the ideal jacket length. First: measure the length along the back from the collar to the floor, and then divide the result by 2. Second: use your hands as a "ruler". To do this, you need to lower them at the seams (without pulling or straining on purpose) - the jacket should end approximately in the middle of the palm. However, this method has an "error" - the measurement accuracy strongly depends on the individual anatomical characteristics of a person.

8. Collar. The collar of the jacket should fit well against the collar of the shirt, which, in turn, should perfectly wrap around the neck. Ideally, that is, not "choke" or "hang out". Stand sideways to the mirror and look at the collar. If the collar is pulled back or folds are formed under it, then this jacket will not suit you. The reasons may be different - the wrong size, does not fit in the shoulders, etc.

The following infographic will help you to visualize the described tips.