How to make a fence with your own hands

How to make a mesh fence

The most common fence used both as temporary and permanent. Requires a minimum of materials, can be quickly assembled, while it is well ventilated and does not create shadows. In fact, there is only one minus: the fence does not hide from prying eyes.

What is needed

Net;
pipes;
fittings;
clamps;
wire;
pegs;
a sledgehammer or powerful puncher;
cord;
roulette;
level;
ladder;
dye;
roller.

How to make a fence

In the places of the outer posts, drive the pegs into the ground and pull the cord to mark the fence line. Mark the supports so that there are 2–2.5 m between them.
Level the posts and drive them into the ground to a depth of about 1 m. This is done with a sledgehammer through a wooden spacer, climbing a ladder. If you have a powerful hammer drill, you can hammer pipes with it.
It is advisable to additionally strengthen the extreme pillars with spacers so that they do not bend when the mesh is stretched. You can dig or drill holes 30–40 cm deep, then drive the pipes to the selected depth and fill the cavities with concrete in the following ratio: one part of cement, three parts of sand and five parts of crushed stone.
Paint the posts or treat them with a special anti-rust compound to extend their lifespan. This can be done later, but without a grid it will be more convenient.
Attach the net with wire to the first post and unfold the roll completely. If the fence is more than 10 m long, untangle the outermost wire in one of the pieces, and then “sew” the two fabrics, weaving the thread into place.
Now stretch the mesh and fasten it with wire to each post one by one. Then pull two threads of reinforcement through all the cells, stepping back 10-15 cm from the top and bottom. Secure the fittings by attaching them to the pipes with clamps or by welding if welded.

How to make a wicker fence from branches

One of the most budgetary options for fencing. It is very easy to make, and materials - branches and poles - can be found literally underfoot. It has a rather aesthetic appearance, but in terms of strength and durability it cannot be compared with other solid fences. More suitable as a decorative fence next to beds, flower beds or a gazebo. However, if you wish, you can assemble a high wattle fence from thick poles and use it as the main fence on the site.

What is needed

Willow, hazel, alder branches;
poles;
scrap;
cord;
pegs;
roulette.

How to make a fence

Pull the cord along the line of the fence and mark the position of the poles (there should be an interval of about 50-60 cm between them).
Prepare the branches. Remove the bark from the poles and burn the part that will be in the ground until charring. Soak thin rods in water to give flexibility. For the same reason, it is better to use fresh cut shoots.
Use a crowbar to make indentations in the ground in the right places. Insert posts into them to a depth of 30-40 cm and tamp the soil so that they hold better. You can alternate thicker poles with thinner ones through one.
Lay stones at the bottom of the fence or simply start weaving 10-15 cm above the ground to protect the fence from rotting.
Lay the bars in a checkerboard pattern, bending around each pole. For uniformity, alternate branches of a larger diameter with a smaller one, and also alternately place the twigs with a thick edge on the front and back of the fence.
Press the rows of rods together to get a tight fence, or, conversely, leave gaps for more air wattle. Make the joints of short branches on the nearest poles. The protruding edges can later be folded inward or trimmed.

How to make a wicker fence from boards

A more noble version of the wattle fence, made from planks. Such a fence looks more attractive, has greater strength, but it is more difficult to assemble and is more expensive in terms of materials. Despite the fact that wood is short-lived and requires constant maintenance, many prefer such a fence to fences made of profiled sheet and other materials.

What is needed

Edged board;
pipes;
bars;
level;
mallet;
paint or impregnation for wood;
plane;
saw;
pegs;
cord;
shovel or drill;
level;
roulette.

How to make a fence

Saw the board into 3m pieces and planer with a planer to make them smoother and reduce paint waste. Treat the surface and ends of the boards with paint, varnish or antiseptic impregnation.
While the wood is drying, work on the supports. Hammer in the pegs around the edges of the fence and pull the cord over them. Mark the installation points for the posts every 3 m.
Drill or dig holes about 1 m deep. Install pipes in them and level them. Spread with stones and cover with sand, carefully tamping in layers of 20-25 cm.
Insert the first plank between the posts, with one edge on the front and the other on the back. To keep the wood from rotting, you can raise it above ground level by placing stones or bricks.
Find the center of the first board and place a block in this place that will serve as an intermediate support. Weave the second and subsequent boards through it, tapping with a mallet.
Check every third or fourth row for horizontalness using a level. After 6-8 rows, make sure the intermediate post is level and correct if necessary.
It is not necessary to fasten each board: they hold well due to the frictional force. If you are afraid for the safety of the fence, fix the upper rows on the supports using bolts or screws.

How to make a slate fence

Like many other roofing materials, slate is also suitable for fencing. However, due to the unprepossessing appearance, such a fence is more often placed not from the side of the street, but in the back of the site. As a rule, old sheets are used that remain after roof repairs or are bought for symbolic money. The disadvantages of such a fence are only in fragility and not very aesthetic appearance.

What is needed

Slate;
pipes;
wooden beam;
nails;
cement;
sand;
crushed stone;
drill or shovel;
hammer;
cord;
pegs;
roulette;
level.

How to make a fence

Drive stakes along the edges of the future fence and pull a cord over them, along which the pillars will later be aligned.
Measure the distance and evenly distribute the supports along the entire length (they should be placed at least every 2.5 meters). Hammer in the pegs in the right places.
Pull out the marks one by one and make holes for the posts with a drill or shovel. The depth depends on the soil, but usually it reaches the freezing depth to avoid frost heaving of the soil. On average, this is 1 m. The diameter of the holes should be slightly larger than the thickness of the supports.
Place the posts so that they touch the taut cord and level them up. Spread the support with stones or broken bricks and tamp the backfill with a suitable block or shovel handle. Fill the hole piece by piece, 20-25 cm at a time.
Prepare concrete. The ratio should be as follows: one part of cement, three parts of sand and five parts of crushed stone. Pour it over each layer of the rammed bedding. Let the mixture harden for at least a day.
Install two belts of longitudinal logs from a bar so that they are at a height of 30-40 cm from the top and bottom of the slate. Attach the bars to the posts with clamps or bolts.
Fix the slate on the logs by nailing it into the upper wave in the corners with nails with a cap. Sheets can be supported on bricks or, conversely, dug into the ground a little. Put each subsequent sheet on one wave on the previous one and nail two pieces at once.

How to make a pallet fence

A primitive, but at the same time fulfilling its functions, a fence that can be quickly and easily assembled from improvised means. Well suited as a temporary fence and allows you to use the pallets remaining after the construction of buildings on the site. You can get them for free in construction supermarkets, where such containers are simply thrown away.

What is needed

Construction pallets;
pipes or corners;
sledgehammer;
pegs;
cord.

How to make a fence

Install the pegs and pull the cord at the site of the future fence. Take a pipe or corner and hammer into the ground with a sledgehammer on one side of the fence at the installation site of the first section.
Insert the pallet so that the post goes between the protruding parts of the boards. Support the section on the other side with the next pipe.
Install the second and all other pallets back to back, fixing them on the supports.
For reliability, you can additionally fasten the pallets with screws. If this is not done, then, if necessary, it will be possible to easily remove any of the sections, simply by lifting it up.

How to make a slab fence

The croaker is a sawn timber waste and the cheapest lumber. That is why fences are often made from it on the site during construction. Such a fence is short-lived and has an unsightly appearance, but it will perfectly cope with the protection of the perimeter and is guaranteed to last 2-3 years.

What is needed

Croaker;
wooden posts or timber;
shovel or drill;
level;
nails;
hammer;
pegs;
cord.

How to make a fence

Mark with a cord the perimeter of the future fence. At intervals of 2–2.5 m, place the pegs in the places where the supports will be.
Use a drill or a shovel to dig holes 50–70 cm deep and install wooden posts about 100 mm in diameter in them. You can use a bar or knock down several slabs together. If necessary, the fence can be easily reinforced with supports on both sides.
Set the supports on a level, and then fill them in layers with broken brick or rubble and carefully tamp with a bar or stick.
At a distance of 20-25 cm from the top and bottom of the pillars, attach two lag belts with nails. Use the same croaker or wood block.
Leaving small gaps, nail the boards to the logs with nails, turning the round side towards the yard.
Close the cracks by stuffing a second layer of slab over the top, but now turn it round with the round side out into the street.

How to make a picket fence

A classic fence made of vertically installed wooden or metal strips. Ideal for those who do not want a solid fence. Moreover, such a fence allows you to hide the courtyard from prying eyes when installed from both sides in a checkerboard pattern.

It looks much nicer than a boring professional sheet, but is not inferior to it in terms of durability. Of course, only when using a metal picket fence (a wooden one needs periodic maintenance and renewal).

What is needed

Fence;
pipes, corners and wooden poles;
timber for lag;
nails;
pegs;
clamps;
cord;
drill or shovel;
level.

How to make a fence

Hammer in pegs along the edges of the fence line and pull the cord over them. Make marks every 2–2.5 m to install the supports.
With a drill or a shovel, make holes in the designated places with a depth of 0.7-1 m.
Insert pillars into the pits and secure them by leveling them. To do this, wedge the supports with pieces of brick or small stones, and then cover them with rubble in layers of 20–25 cm and compact them thoroughly. It is advisable to impregnate wooden supports with bitumen or oil waste to protect them from decay.
Use clamps or bolts to attach to the posts two crossbars from a bar from the bottom and top at a height of 20-30 cm from the edges.
Nail the first picket board, checking its verticality by level. Maintain the required gap and nail the next one. Usually, another one is inserted between the boards, using it as a template. If a smaller gap is needed, a block of the appropriate thickness is selected.
If desired, you can assemble the sections on the ground by nailing a picket fence to the rungs, and then attach the finished elements to the posts using bolts or clamps.
The metal picket fence is mounted according to the same principle, only all wooden parts - pillars, crossbars - are replaced with metal ones, and roofing screws are used instead of nails.

How to make a fence from a profiled sheet

A practical and modern fence that can be erected quickly and will last for many years without any maintenance. The mass of available colors allows you to choose a fence to match the roof, there are also options for photo printing that simulate various surfaces. Of the minuses - large windage and shade on the site.

What is needed

Professional sheet;
pipes 60 × 60 mm;
pipes 40 × 20 mm;
bolts with nuts and washers;
screwdriver;
screws;
level;
pegs;
cord;
drill or shovel.

How to make a fence

Mark out the perimeter by hammering in the pegs and pulling the cord along the fence line. Mark the locations for the posts every 2–2.5 m.
Using a drill or a shovel, make holes with a diameter of 150-200 mm and a depth of 1-1, 2 m, but no less than the depth of freezing of the soil.
Place pipes 60 × 60 mm in the holes and, leveling them to a level, pour concrete prepared in the following ratio: one part of cement, three parts of sand and five parts of crushed stone. Beforehand, you can drive the pillars a little into the ground.
Attach the logs from the 20 × 40 mm pipe to the supports at a distance of 25-30 cm from the top and bottom. Drill them through with a drill and bolt to nut or weld if welded.
Paint the posts and beams with corrosion protection paint. Pay special attention to the side that will be closed with a professional sheet, because then it will no longer be possible to tint it.
Place the first sheet, lifting it 10-15 cm above the ground, and level it. Attach the sheet to the logs with screws, wrapping them in the lower waves. So far, only at four points - in the corners.
Install the second sheet, making an overlap on one wave with the previous one, and secure it, having previously aligned the upper edges of both sheets to avoid skewing. Install all other sections to the end of the fence in the same way.
After installing all the sheets, go back and finally fix them by tightening the rest of the screws. To do this, slightly unscrew the extreme screws and pull the cord over them along the entire length of the fence. So you will not miss the pipe, and all the screws will be located strictly in one line.