How to make a self-leveling floor with your own hands

2024 Author: Malcolm Clapton | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-17 03:44

Any topcoat will ideally fit on such a surface.

1. Prepare materials

You will need:

• leveling mixture;
• water;
• deep penetration primer;
• tile adhesive or polyurethane foam;
• container for kneading;
• needle roller with a long handle;
• wide spatula;
• drill with a whisk;
• roller or brush;
• bubble level;
• roulette;
• pencil;
• construction stapler;
• broom or vacuum cleaner;
• knife;
• wet feet;
• damper tape.

2. Calculate the exact amount of the mixture

Since the filling is done in one go, it is important to initially calculate the required amount of mortar. To find out how many bags of leveling mixture you need, carry out some simple measurements and calculations.

Use a laser level or a normal level to mark an arbitrary horizontal line on the walls around the perimeter of the room. Measure the distance from this mark to the floor in several places along each wall and determine the zero, that is, the highest point of the base. Find the lowest point in the same way.

In our example, the results were 152, 149, 145, 153 mm. The smallest number is the highest point, or zero, and the largest is the lowest. The difference in height is the difference between them, that is, 8 mm (153 - 145 = 8).

Check the packaging for the minimum permissible floor thickness. This is usually 3-5 mm. Let's take 5 mm as an example. Now you can calculate the average layer thickness that will be needed to calculate the amount of the mixture. Let's use a simple formula:

Where:

• a is the minimum permissible floor thickness;
• b - zero point height (0);
• c - height difference;
• d is the average floor thickness.

In our case, the middle layer is 9 mm:

To calculate the required volume of dry mix, look at the packaging for its consumption. Usually it is 1, 6–1, 8 kg / m² with a layer thickness of 1 mm. If the middle layer is 9 mm, you get 1.6 × 9 = 14.4 kg / m². That is, for example, for a room of 12 m² you will need 14.4 × 12 = 172.8 kg. Or seven bags of 25 kg.

3. Prepare the base

The quality of the poured floor will depend on the thoroughness of the preparation of the base. The surface must be completely dry and sound.

Remove any loose parts, repair cracks, and scrape off paint and plaster stains. Remove all debris and thoroughly sweep or vacuum the surface.

Fill the gaps between the wall and floor with tile glue or polyurethane foam to prevent the mixture from getting into them and flooding the neighbors below. To prevent spreading into adjacent rooms, install drywall strips or wooden blocks in doorways.

4. Apply primer

Before pouring, it is imperative to cover the base with a deep penetration primer. If you do not do this, then the adhesion of the mixture will decrease, and moisture from the solution will quickly be absorbed, which will lead to a deterioration in spreadability.

Dilute the primer according to package directions and cover the substrate with two to three coats using a roller or wide brush. Apply each subsequent layer after the previous one has completely dried.

5. Install the damper tape

To compensate for linear expansions of the self-leveling floor, glue or fix with a construction stapler the edge tape on the walls around the entire perimeter of the room.

If the thickness of the screed is less than 10 mm, the damper tape can be omitted. With a layer over 1 cm or using underfloor heating, the use of tape is mandatory.

6. Make the markup

Leveling mixtures have good fluidity, but contrary to popular belief, they do not level themselves. They need to be evenly distributed over the surface, and this will require marking.

Using the reference line drawn on the wall in the second step, make marks that will serve as the upper boundary of the self-leveling floor. To do this, mark the zero point and add to it the minimum layer thickness recommended by the mix manufacturer.

In our example, the zero point is 145 mm from the reference line and the minimum layer is 5 mm. This means that from 145 mm you need to subtract 5 mm for the layer thickness. As a result, it turns out that for a perfect flat surface, we should pour the mixture at marks 140 mm below the reference line.

Draw lines with a pencil or marker around the perimeter of the room at the desired height, and then connect them in one line using a level, rule, wooden strip or any other similar object.

7. Prepare the mixture

Pour clean cold water into a container according to the proportions indicated on the package and pour the contents of the bag into it. Stir thoroughly with a mixer until smooth. Use low speed to avoid air entrapment and bubble formation.

Let the mixture stand for 3-5 minutes to complete the chemical processes and mix again. Do not under any circumstances exceed the permissible amount of water. Otherwise, the solution will delaminate, the strength of the self-leveling floor will deteriorate and it may crack.

The prepared mixture should be used in 30-40 minutes, so you will have to work very quickly and preferably with an assistant who will simultaneously knead the next portion while you pour the first.

8. Fill the surface

Starting at the far end of the room, carefully pour the solution in strips and spread it evenly over the base. Use a wide spatula to help yourself if necessary.

Roll the poured surface several times with a needle roller to expel air bubbles and distribute the compound throughout the floor. To work effectively, the height of the needles should be twice the thickness of the screed layer. Otherwise, the composition will "wrap" on the roller, which will lead to the formation of waves.

You need to move along the screed layer in special studded bases for boots - wet shoes. But if the area of the self-leveling floor is small, with careful work, you can do without them.

9. Wait until dry

The drying time of the self-leveling floor may vary depending on the layer thickness. As a rule, you can walk on it in 4-6 hours. It is important to avoid drafts and direct sunlight so that everything dries out evenly and gradually.

Laying the topcoat over the floor is only possible after the screed is completely dry. Usually no earlier than a week later. Otherwise, there is a risk of deformation from the evaporation of residual moisture.

10. Cut the damper tape

The final touch is trimming the damper tape along the perimeter of the walls. Take a sharp knife and carefully remove the tape protruding from the floor surface.

The details of the whole process are in the video.