Unique places in Russia that you have hardly heard of: Ivolginsky Datsan

Russia, like a patchwork quilt, is woven from dozens of cultures. 142,905,200 dissimilar people (2010 census). Every corner of our country is unique thanks to the people living there. In the south, the color is created by the Caucasian peoples, in the Volga region - by the Tatars, Mordovians and Chuvash, and in Siberia - by the Yakuts, Khanty and other northerners.

Today we are leaving for Buryatia, the center of Russian Buddhism.

Ivolginsky datsan

Ivolginsky Datsan is a Buddhist monastery officially considered the center of Buddhism in Russia. Its history does not go back to oblivion. There are no beautiful legends about him. But everyone who has been there says that the place is magical.

Datsan - among the Buryats, this is a Buddhist monastery, which, in addition to temples, also includes a university.

Buddhism came to Russia in the 17th century. Before the revolution, there were 35 datsans in the country. But for the Bolsheviks, religion, as you know, was "opium" - all confessions were discredited.

The war turned the tide. If you ask how the Ivolginsky Datsan appeared, local residents will answer: "Stalin gave it." At the beginning of the war, the situation at the front was so difficult that the soldiers and their commanders were happy for any help. Buryat Buddhists collected 350,000 rubles (an unheard-of sum at that time) and donated them to the needs of the army. They say that it was in gratitude for this generous gesture that the Soviet leadership allowed the believers to build the datsan.

The main cathedral church of the Ivolginsky datsan

Stupas-suburgans

Maanin dugan

Whether this is true or a local fiction is unknown. But the fact that in May 1945 the Resolution of the People's Commissars of the Buryat-Mongolian Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic "On the opening of a Buddhist temple …" was issued, remains a fact.

… The monastery in Ulan-Ude, the capital of Buryatia, is one of the greatest attractions that I have seen in the USSR. It was built when Stalin was at the pinnacle of power, I did not understand how this could happen, but this fact helped me to realize that spirituality is so deeply rooted in human consciousness that it is very difficult, if not impossible, to uproot it … Dalai Lama XIV

The construction of the Ivolginsky Datsan began in an open field. At first there was a simple wooden house, but gradually, thanks to the efforts of the faithful, the monastery expanded and transformed. In 1951, the authorities officially allocated land for it, and in 1970 and 1976. cathedral temples (dugans) were built.

Dugan is a Buddhist temple.

Today Ivolginsky Datsan is 10 temples with unusual architecture, 5 stupas-suburgans, a university, a greenhouse of the sacred Bodhi tree, aviaries with roe deer, houses of lamas and one of the main Buddhist shrines - the incorruptible body of Lama Itigelov … However, first things first.

What to see in the Ivolginsky Datsan?

Sogchen dugan (the main cathedral temple), Choira dugan, Devazhen dugan, Jude dugan, Sakhyusan sumee, Maidari sumee, Maanin dugan, Nogoon Dari Ekhen sumee, Gunrik dugan, dugan of Green Tara - these are the names of 10 temples of the Ivolginsky monastery. They differ in size, year of construction and purpose. So, Gunrik Dugan is a temple dedicated to Buddha Vairochana, Jude Dugan is a tantric temple.

The temples are built in the Sino-Tibetan style: bright, multicolored, with upward-curved roofs. But at the same time, the Ivolga buildings have unique architectural features.

The architecture of the Ivolginsky Datsan

Its distinctive feature is multicolor

Lion in Buddhism - a symbol of wisdom and courage

Photos: 1, 2 and 3 - Mikhail Semakhin

Firstly, in Buryatia, the main building material is wood. This distinguishes the Buryat dugans from the Tibetan ones, which, as a rule, are built of stone. Secondly, almost all the temples in the Ivolginsky Monastery have a "hallway": in Tibet, the entrance to the temple is carried out directly from the street. This is due to the fact that the winters in Buryatia are harsh and such lobbies protect the dugans from the cold.

A special place among the buildings of the monastery is occupied by the palace with the imperishable body of the great Teacher. We are talking about a Buryat religious figure, one of the outstanding Buddhist devotees of the 20th century, Hambo Lama Dashi-Dorzho Itigelov.

Itigelov was born in 1852 in Buryatia. The boy was left an orphan early, and at the age of 15 he walked 300 km to get to the Aninsky datsan and become a novice there. Itigelov spent 23 years in the monastery, comprehending spiritual and philosophical truths. After completing his studies, he was actively engaged in religious activities, received the title of the chief Teacher of all Buddhists in Eastern Siberia.

In the summer of 1927, Itigelov sat in the lotus position and called his disciples. He gave them the last instruction (to visit him after 30 years) and fell into nirvana. So he was "buried" by placing his body in a cedar barrel.

After 30 years, as bequeathed, the novices came to visit Itigelov and found that for three decades the Teacher's body remained incorrupt. Subsequently, he was taken out of the barrel several more times - the result remained the same. In 2002, Itigelov was finally taken out of the ground.

Scientists were present during the exhumation. They took samples of Itigelov's hair, nails and skin. The results of laboratory tests were shocking: the tissues were not dead. Moreover, for 75 years, the body of the Hambo Lama has not been deformed at all. Itigelov is still sitting in the lotus position, the lamas caring for him claim that his body temperature changes, and on days of worship he even sweats.

Anyone can see the incorruptible. But only eight times a year - during the big Buddhist holidays. The rest of the time, only monks and (in exceptional cases) official delegations have access to it.

Another important building on the territory of the Ivolginsky Monastery is the Buddhist University (“Dashi Choinhorlin” - translated from the Buryat as “Land of Happy Learning”). It was opened in 1991. Outwardly, the university is very modest - a large wooden house.

Currently, about 100 novice monks - huvarak are studying at the educational institution. The day of the khuvarak is quite strict, and the way of life is ascetic. Wake up at 6:00, from 7:00 to 21:00 - khurals and study of philosophy, Tibetan language, oriental medicine, iconography, as well as a number of secular subjects (logic, history and others).

Khural is a divine service.

In between classes, novices prepare their own food, clean their homes (ordinary wooden huts right on the territory of the monastery) and do chores on the datsan. After five years, the huwaraki become lamas, and also receive a secular diploma of education.

Lama is a religious teacher, a monk.

Everyone can join the life of the khuvarak: on Saturdays and Sundays, teachers of the Ivolginsky Datsan (among whom, by the way, there are spiritual leaders from Tibet, Mongolia and India) read lectures for everyone.

What to do in the Ivolginsky Datsan?

Acquaintance with the Ivolginsky Datsan should be started from the city.

Goroo - in Buddhist tradition, this is an honorable tour of holy places.

You can get to the territory of the Ivolginsky monastery through the main gate (they are located on the south side of the monastery) or small secondary ones. The main entrance is open only on major holidays, on other days tourists and pilgrims use the "spare" gate. Along the entire perimeter of the temple complex there is a special path for performing the city.

The datsan must be bypassed in the direction of the Sun (clockwise). Goroo can be done both independently and accompanied by lamas. The latter are always friendly and gladly conduct excursions for guests. The main thing is to complete the city an odd number of times.

On the territory of the datsan, every sculpture, every monument and even an element of decor is filled with deep meaning. Therefore, during the city, you should not rush. So, during the tour, not only dugans will meet, but also prayer drums (khurde). They must be twisted (also clockwise). Inside them are scrolls with mantras. In the largest drum of the Ivolginsky datsan there is a scroll where, according to the lamas, 100,000 mantras are written - one turn is like 100,000 prayers read.

Prayer drums

Spinning drums during goroo

The largest drum of the Ivolginsky monastery

Also on the way there will be a bizarre stone. According to legend, there was a palm print on it of Green Tara (a goddess who quickly comes to the rescue). It is believed that if you move away from the stone a few steps, make a wish (always good), stretch your hand forward and, closing your eyes, walk up to the stone and try to touch it, then your plan will certainly come true. If you go astray and touch something other than a stone, desire is not destined to become reality.

Stone Green Tara

By touching it, you can make wishes

Instructions

Photos: 1, 2 and 3 - Mikhail Semakhin

During the city, you can go to any open dugans, attend prayer services. The main thing is to observe local etiquette. So, you can't turn your back on the Buddha statues, you can't point your finger at them. Also, on the territory of the monastery, you cannot smoke, use foul language, you should not talk loudly.

You should also look into the greenhouse, where the sacred Bodhi tree grows. This is one of the main symbols of Buddhism. According to legend, by meditating under this tree, Buddha attained Enlightenment. The greenhouse of the Ivolginsky Datsan is more than 30 years old, the first shoot was brought from India, and the tree gradually grew into a small grove.

After the city, you can go to the wasteland behind the datsan, where a dry shrub grows, hung with multi-colored rags. These rags are called himmorins.

Himmorin is a prayer cloth; the color of himmorin depends on the year of birth of the person praying.

You can find out what kind of chemmorin you need, consecrate it, and also ask where it is better to hang it, you can ask the lamas. The flap needs to be tied to a tree or bush, and every gust of wind will "read" a prayer for you. Himmorin symbolizes the psychic energy of a person. Therefore, this rite is recommended to be performed when melancholy overcomes, in order to revive internal energy.

Himmorins

Himmorins are even hung on trees

Every blow of the wind is like reading a prayer

Photos: 1, 2, 3

In addition to temples and religious monuments (for example, suburgan stupas), on the territory of the Ivolginsky datsan there is a museum of Buddhist art monuments, a library, a cafe, a summer hotel and retail shops. In some of them, Buddhist souvenirs are sold, while in others local residents are building businesses. They sell shawls, woolen mittens and socks. After talking with them, you can not only reduce the price, but also learn a lot of interesting things about the Buryat people. The cafe serves national cuisine (poses, pilaf, etc.) - this is another way to join the Buryat culture. In addition, the places around are so distinctive, unlike European Russia, that hands themselves involuntarily reach for the camera. In a word, even people far from Buddhism will find something to do in the Ivolginsky Datsan.

How to get to the Ivolginsky Datsan?

Datsan is located in the Ivolginsky region of the Republic of Buryatia in the village of Verkhnyaya Ivolga, which is 8 km from the regional center (the village of Ivolginsk) and 35 km from Ulan-Ude. Therefore, if you decide to visit the Ivolginsky Datsan, then first you need to get to the capital of Buryatia, and from there you have to make your way to the Upper Ivolga. Two options are possible here.

Public transport

From Ulan-Ude to Ivolginsk there is a regular bus number 130, which will take you to the regional center in 30-40 minutes. You can get from Ivolginsk to the village of Verkhnyaya Ivolga by minibus, which runs there regularly.

On big Buddhist holidays, a bus from Ulan-Ude goes straight to the datsan.

Personal car

By car from Ulan-Ude to the Ivolginsky Datsan, you can get along the A-340 highway (earlier it was called A-165) - "Kyakhtinsky tract". The road runs through the Ivolginsky, Selenginsky and Kyakhtinsky districts. The route is approximately the following: Ulan-Ude - Suzha - Nur-Selenie - Lower Ivolga - Ivolginsk - Upper Ivolga.

Ivolginsky datsan

Sogchen dugan

Temple of Green Tara

Khurde

Itigelov Palace

Choira dugan

Why is it worth seeing the Ivolginsky Datsan?

Ivolginsky Datsan is a great place to study Buddhism (the oldest world religion) and Buryat culture. Despite the fact that the monastery is relatively young, it has original architecture and a unique atmosphere. This is the place where you can find harmony.

The monastery is peaceful and calm. Llamas, each with their own specialization, welcome guests: astrologer lamas will compose a horoscope for you and tell you about the future; healer llamas will tell you what hurts you have and how to treat it. In addition, you can just talk to them, talk about your problems and get wise advice.

Translated from the Buryat, the name of the Ivolginsky datsan ("Gandan Dashi Choinhorlin") means "a monastery where the Wheel of Teaching revolves, full of joy and bringing happiness." Those who visit the datsan - it does not matter whether they are Buddhists or not - note that these are the very feelings you experience - happiness and joy.