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2024 Author: Malcolm Clapton | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-17 03:44
Russia is a "storeroom" of unique places. Today we will visit the island town of Sviyazhsk. Administratively, this is a small village (only 252 inhabitants) in the Zelenodolsk region of the Republic of Tatarstan. But it is difficult to find a similar place with an equally rich history. After all, Sviyazhsk is a city that conquered the impregnable Kazan.
Russia is the largest state in the world. Its vastness stretches for almost 10,000 km - from Kaliningrad to Kamchatka. Russia is a country with amazing history and culture. That is why we are launching a new special project, within the framework of which we will acquaint you with little-known places in Russia.
The first stop on our tour is the island town of Sviyazhsk with a rich history and picturesque paintings.
Novograd Sviyazhsky
Mid-16th century. Between the Muscovy and the Kazan Khanate - a fierce struggle. Ivan the Terrible wants to conquer the Volga region by all means.
The Kazan Khanate is in deep crisis. Almost the only outpost of resistance to Russian troops, superior to the enemy in numbers and artillery, is Kazan.
In 1550, the army of Ivan the Terrible made a second attempt to conquer the capital of the Kazan Khanate. Unsuccessful: too far from Moscow to regularly supply the troops with provisions and weapons. But, returning home, the governors noticed in the middle of the river a high hill with steep slopes and a flat top (Kara-Kermen). The tsar was reported about the "find".
Grozny immediately appreciated the strategic value of the hill. The hill is surrounded by water on almost all sides; it is only 26 versts from Kazan, but it is not visible from the city. Ivan IV had a cunning plan - to build a fortress, which would become a transit point for the Russian troops.
For 1000 km to the supposed fortress, in the Uglich forests, the tsar ordered to build a wooden Kremlin. The order was fulfilled. And in the spring of 1551, when the Volga opened from the ice, the tsar ordered to dismantle the fortress, load the logs on rafts and float to Kara-Kermen.
On May 24, 1551, Russian troops and hard workers landed on the island. Work began to boil: 75,000 people worked day and night. In less than a month, a powerful military fortress was built on an overgrown, unsociable hill, even larger than the Moscow Kremlin. Next, two churches were erected - Trinity and Rozhdestvenskaya, as well as numerous outbuildings. The fortified city was first named "Ivan-city", and then - "Novograd Sviyazhsky".
On October 2, 1552, Russian troops took Kazan.
Sviyazhsk
View of Sviyazhsk from the dam
Panorama from the island
Photo: andirin / Photogenica, 2, 3.
What to see in Sviyazhsk?
In the second half of the 16th century, Sviyazhsk received the status of a district town: the population grew, crafts developed, new churches and houses were built.
By the beginning of the 18th century, the city had become a "monastery" one. All economic, political and administrative functions were taken over by Kazan. In Sviyazhsk, there were two monasteries - Trinity-Sergievsky (later - John the Baptist) and Assumption. The city was considered a stronghold of spirituality and beauty.
The revolution destroyed harmony. In 1918, Trotsky arrived in Sviyazhsk - the Red Terror began. Priests were executed, churches were destroyed (from 1929 to 1930, 6 of the 12 churches that existed in the city were destroyed), both monasteries were closed.
In Soviet times, Sviyazhsk became "a city of unnecessary people." In 1928, a correctional colony for difficult teenagers was placed in the cells of the Assumption Monastery, and in 1943 - an NKVD camp. Later, these premises were converted into a psychiatric hospital.
Only in the 1960s, after the Kuibyshev reservoir was filled, when Sviyazhsk became an island, its cultural and historical revival began.
Today the island city of Sviyazhsk is like a portal to the past. There is no public transport, industry and modern buildings - only the picturesque nature of the Middle Volga and numerous architectural monuments.
In total, there are about 20 old buildings on the island: some are well preserved, others are dilapidated. Of the existing buildings: the Assumption Cathedral (1556-1561), the bell tower of the Nikolskaya Church (1556), the Sergius Church (XVII century), the Church of Constantine and Helena (XVI-XVIII centuries) and others.
Assumption Cathedral and bell tower of St. Nicholas Church
Cathedral "Joy of All Who Sorrow"
Church of Constantine and Helena
The pearl of the island is the Trinity Church (1551) - the first Orthodox church on the Volga and the only building that has survived since the time of Ivan the Terrible. It was built from huge larch logs without a single nail in just one daylight.
Of course, the church was being completed. In the 19th century, the hipped roof was replaced with an eight-pitched roof, a porch was added, and the log walls were sheathed and painted … The temple looked faded and inconspicuous then.
But in 2009, they decided to return it to its historical appearance: they removed the paint, added a wooden terrace. They left only Tes (apparently, to protect the ancient logs from rain and snow). Now, not only inside, but also outside, the Trinity Church exudes the atmosphere of the era of Ivan IV. By the way, there is a bench at the entrance to it, on which, according to legend, the Terrible Sovereign himself sat.
What to do in Sviyazhsk?
As in other historical places, the main "entertainment" in Sviyazhsk is sightseeing. This can be done either independently or using the services of professional guides.
The latter organize various excursion programs, including interactive ones (with historical performances and theatrical performances).
So, many such events are held by the State Historical, Architectural and Art Museum "Ostrov-grad Sviyazhsk" (the program for 2014 can be found on their official website).
In 2012, after reconstruction, the Horse Yard was opened, the construction of which dates back to the 16th century. In tsarist Russia, he served as an inn for visitors, and in Soviet times, as a household block. Now the Horse Yard is an ethnographic center where you can plunge into the atmosphere of antiquity.
A craft settlement was organized on its territory, where you can watch how horseshoes are forged, clay pots are made and fishing baskets are weaved.
By the way, fishing is one of the main occupations of local residents to this day (even fish are on the emblem of the city). This is understandable: there is no industry, there is little room for agriculture, but there is plenty of water.
Sviyazhsk stands at the place where the Sviyaga River flows into the Volga; navigation starts in April and ends in October. Almost all local residents have boats - in the summer the Volga shores are literally strewn with fishing enthusiasts.
Even people from other regions come to "hunt" for pikes and bream. The men joke: “Sviyazhsk is an ideal place for fishing with my wife. She is going to the city for an excursion, and you are calmly waiting for a bite."
How to get to Sviyazhsk?
Previously, it was possible to get to Sviyazhsk only by water. But in 2008, a dam was built with an asphalt road, which connected the island with the "mainland". Now you can get to the village by both river and land transport.
On water
In summer, a passenger motor ship runs daily on the route Kazan River Station - Sviyazhsk.
Departure time:8:20
Arrival time:10:30
Ticket price:RUB 100 (tickets are sold one hour before departure)
In the evening 16:30 the ship leaves back, arrives in Kazan at 18:45.
Additional sightseeing tours are also available on weekends.
In addition, you can sail to Sviyazhsk by motor boat or boat from nearby Vasilyevo or Vvedenskaya Sloboda.
On the ground
Sviyazhsk is located 30 km from Kazan - 40 minutes by car. You can find directions on the Internet or use the navigator. But you cannot enter the village by car - there is a parking lot below.
By rail
From the central railway station of Kazan, trains run regularly to the railway station Sviyazhsk, which is 14 km from the island, in the village of Nizhnie Vyazovye. From there, the island-grad can be reached by hitchhiking or taxi.
Why is it worth seeing Sviyazhsk?
Sviyazhsk is a small island embraced by the mighty waves of the great Russian river. In 1833 Pushkin visited Sviyazhsk. Since then, there has been a legend that the poet had it in mind when describing the Buyan island in the "Tale of Tsar Saltan". Of course, this is just a legend (Alexander Sergeevich wrote about the Swan princess in 1831), but it is easy to believe in it, because Sviyazhsk is really an island of fabulous beauty. There you want to wander between churches and dilapidated houses, admire nature, stand on the shore and think about the past and the future.
Sviyazhsk is a tiny village where most of the inhabitants are old people, but many world cities can envy its history. For more than 15 years this place has been applying for inclusion in the UNESCO World Heritage List. Federal and local authorities are doing everything to make Sviyazhsk a “world heritage”. But many of those who have visited this city (not tourists, but simple connoisseurs of history) note that restoration work is sometimes carried out roughly, without observing historical accuracy and respect for Russian culture (if only it looked like something old). That's why Sviyazhsk must be seen! … until it became a typical tourist ethnopark.
And finally a life hack: if you want to feel the silence and historical grandeur of the island-city, go to Sviyazhsk in autumn or winter.
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