Everything you need to know about skiing before going to the store or rental shop

2024 Author: Malcolm Clapton | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-17 03:44

This guide will help you choose alpine skis based on height, stiffness and other parameters, find the perfect boots, bindings and poles.

Before looking for specific skis, you need to decide what you plan to do on the slopes.

How to choose alpine skiing for the intended purpose

Carving or cross-country skiing (Carving)

These skis are designed for skiing on ready-made ski slopes, allow you to easily enter sharp turns and ride with carving equipment - not on the entire sliding surface, but only on the edges (narrow metal strips along the edges of the ski, with which turns are made).

Unlike racing skis, carving skis are softer and can be ridden with imperfect technique. Therefore, they can be chosen by beginners and those who prefer prepared slopes.

Skis for professional racing (Racing)

These are special carving skis for slalom (SL), giant slalom (GS), super slalom (SG) and downhill (DH). The models differ greatly in geometry and features, are designed for athletes and cost a lot.

Universal skis (All-mountain, All-terrain)

These skis are suitable for skiing on tamped slopes, and for freeriding on virgin soil, and for downhill skiing. Such skis are inferior to specialized ones, but their capabilities are quite enough for comfortable amateur skiing.

Freeride skis (Big-mountain, Backcountry)

These are wider skis for skiing on unprepared slopes. The increased width of the skis keeps the freerider on deep, fluffy virgin soil, and also allows jumping off the rocks without compromising health.

Park skis for freestyle (Park & Pipe, Freestyle)

These are skis designed for acrobatics and jumping from trampolines in special parks, passing mogul tracks.

Park skis are often twin-tip models with an equally curved toe and heel. In such skis, the freestyler can comfortably land after jumping from the springboard with both his back and face.

Having decided on the purpose of the skis, you can proceed to the selection of a specific pair. In this case, several parameters must be taken into account: length, stiffness and radius of the side cutout.

We will not consider skis for professional racing, since they are selected in accordance with a specific sports discipline, and the pros do not need any recommendations. Better to focus on the selection of equipment for beginners and advanced skiers.

Alpine skiing parameters

Length

The length of alpine skis depends on their purpose and the width of the waist - the narrowest point of the ski.

• Carving, freestyle … To pick up carving or park skis in height, subtract 5-10 cm from your height.
• Freeride … If you choose less wide skis (with a waist of 80 mm), subtract 5 cm from your height. If you are wider (waist from 90 to 110 mm), add 10 cm.
• Universal … If you choose skis with a waist less than 85 mm, subtract 10 cm from your height. If your waist is more than 85 mm, a suitable length will be –5 to +5 cm for your height.

Rigidity

Rigid skis allow you to develop high speed without losing stability, including during turns. However, to ski hard, you need good technique.

Carving skis have greater longitudinal and torsional rigidity than general-purpose skis. This compensates for the centrifugal force that occurs at high speed. With a lack of rigidity, it will not be possible to make a clear turn: the skis will break down to side slip.

The more weight, the harder the skis are needed to hold it.

It will be more convenient for beginners and amateurs to ride soft skis, for example, universal skis. They allow you to make mistakes in technique and provide a more comfortable ride. In addition, the harder the ski, the higher the price, therefore, for amateur skiing, it is preferable to choose soft ones.

As a rule, ski stiffness indicators are indicated on the product card or on the ski tag.

Sidecut radius

The radius of the sidecut (Sidecut) depends on the geometry of the ski. The larger the radius, the wider the arc your skis will follow.

Carving skis are divided into several types depending on the skiing style. Slalom ones have a short radius of 9–12 meters, which allows them to move in small arcs. Long-radius skis with indicators of 17-25 meters are designed for wide slopes and allow you to reach high speeds.

There are also medium radius skis with indicators from 12 to 17 meters. Due to the reduced radius, these skis obey better when cornering and, unlike long-radius skis, allow you to ski on rather narrow slopes clogged with people.

The radius of universal skis is 15 to 18 meters. This radius is suitable for those who are just mastering the ski slopes.

Due to the increased width, freeride skis have a large sidecut radius - about 20 meters. It is better to choose such models for trained skiers.

Alpine ski constructions

Now there are three main designs of alpine skiing and many mixed options.

Sandwich

The core of these skis usually consists of several layers of wood and synthetic materials and is reinforced with carbon or fiberglass mesh.

The core is closed from the sides with plastic walls, from the top - by a decorative strip, and from the bottom - by a sliding surface. Due to several layers of the core, the strength of the ski increases and the shock absorption increases.

Cap (cap)

Unlike Sandwich, such skis do not have side or decorative strips, and the core is closed by one monolithic structure that reaches the edges.

Cap provides lighter weight and more torsional stiffness to the ski, which in turn enhances handling. In addition, production is less expensive, and therefore such skis are sold at lower prices.

Monocoque

This is the development of the Salomon brand, a one-piece composite body to which a sliding surface is glued. A core made of wood or lightweight synthetic materials is installed inside the body.

Skis made with Monocoque technology have high torsional stiffness and low weight, which provides stability when cornering and less sensitivity to uneven tracks.

Apart from these three designs, there are a large number of mixed designs. For example, Monocoque-Sandwich or even Cap-Sandwich, when the middle of the ski is made according to one technology, and the ends according to another.

Alpine skiing materials

Alpine ski cores are made from light wood, plain foam, or a combination of wood and synthetic materials.

Wooden cores perfectly dampen vibrations, provide good controllability of the ski and uniform elasticity along the entire length.

In cheaper skis, foam cores can be found. For example, the Cap structure is filled with lightweight synthetic foam. Foam does not provide the same stability and resilience as wood, but it weighs less.

The next layer is the braiding of the core made of composite materials. The stiffness of the ski depends on it to a greater extent. The braid is made of fiberglass, carbon and other fibers combined with epoxy resin. To increase the rigidity, the braid can be supplemented with metal plates made of light alloys, such as aluminum and titanium.

Combined materials are also used in the production of the sliding surface. For example, polyethylene with the addition of graphite. Graphite reduces the electrostatic charge, due to which small ice crystals and dirt adhere to the sliding surface, and polyethylene ensures better preservation of the ointment on the ski surface.

How to choose ski bindings

The choice depends on several parameters.

1. Fastening standard. There are several binding standards that are suitable for boots with a certain type of sole:

• Alpine Mounts … Fits ISO 5355 soles. This standard applies to most trail shoes.
• Frame mounts … In such mounts, the front and rear are connected by a frame. Due to this, the skier can not only ride with a fully secured foot, but also unfasten the heel to go skiing, for example, uphill. Most of these bindings are ISO 9523 (Touring) compatible.
• WTR (Walk to Ride) … Developed by Salomon. Bindings for boots with a higher WTR sole, equipped with a protector for a comfortable walk.
• MNC (Multi Norm Compatible) … These bindings will fit any outsole standard: ISO 5355, ISO 9523 and WTR.

2. Elasticity of fastening … This is the maximum force at which the fastener will not open, but will return the boot to its place.

Carving ski bindings have little elasticity. It is enough to move the boot 1 cm, and everything will unfasten.

Freeride bindings are more flexible because they are more stressed when riding wide skis on unprepared slopes. To unfasten the freeride mount, the boot must move 2, 5–3 cm to the side.

3. Width of ski stop … A ski-stop is a metal bracket that is needed for braking if the ski is unfastened. It looks like two wires on the sides of the mounts.

The waist (narrowest point) of the ski should be narrower than the ski stop. Otherwise, you will not be able to put on the ski carrier.

If the brace of the ski stop is too wide, it will protrude far beyond the boundaries of the ski and cling to the snow when skiing. Therefore, select a ski mount only after choosing the skis themselves.

4. Features of fastening on the ski … Bindings are installed on skis in different ways.

• With screws … This is the most secure installation method. Downside: you can't use multiple skis with the same binding. In addition, the screws break the structure of the skis a little, so if you want to change the bindings, holes will remain from the old ones.
• On a platform with holes … Some skis have a bindings platform. In this case, it is better to buy mounts from the same manufacturer: the platform holes will coincide with the mounts and you do not have to spend a lot of time on installation.
• On a platform without holes … If a platform with no holes is attached to the ski, any mounts will fit to it, since you will make the holes yourself.
• On a platform with guides … For such platforms, special fasteners are needed, which are put on the rails, after which the screw is tightened. Such bindings can be easily changed to suit the size of the boot, which can be useful if several people are skiing on the same skis.

How to choose sticks

1. Material … Poles can be made of aluminum or carbon fiber and fiberglass. When choosing models made of aluminum, pay attention to the numbers on the stick. For example, 5086 or 6061 is an indication of the alloy. The higher the number, the harder and stronger the alloy.

Models made of carbon fiber and fiberglass are lighter, stronger and more expensive than aluminum ones, however, they do not last forever: if you damage a stick made of composite materials with the sharp edge of the ski, it will quickly break under load.

2. Form … Sticks for normal riding are straight. For downhill slopes, such as giant slalom, curved. This shape allows athletes to remove the pole rings behind their backs during the descent, increasing aerodynamics.

3. The size and shape of the rings … The rings at the bottom of the stick are designed to keep the stick from going deep into the snow. Freeride models have large rings to keep the stick well on soft, fluffy snow. Poles for piste skiing are equipped with small rings that will not interfere and cling to the boots during skiing.

Some manufacturers make poles with replaceable rings for different riding conditions.

4. Stick length … This is the most important indicator.

To find the ideal length, turn the stick over and grasp it under the ring. If, in this position, a right angle forms between the forearm and shoulder, this stick is for you. Some experts advise adding 5-7 cm to this length in order to take into account the immersion of the stick in the snow.

Put on your ski boots before choosing your poles: they will add a few centimeters to your height.

As for the lanyard (the strap that secures the stick to the hand), it is not advised to wear it. The ski bindings will automatically release your boots when you fall, but you are unlikely to be able to remove the lanyards from your wrists as quickly. And this is fraught with injury. Therefore, you can easily choose poles without lanyards or cut them off after purchase.

Parameters of ski boots

To begin with, we will tell you what characteristics ski boots have, and then we will figure out how to choose boots depending on your skiing style.

Rigidity

This characteristic indicates how much effort is needed to change the angle of inclination of the boot shaft. The harder the boot, the better the effort from your muscles is transferred to the skis.

Soft boots dampen the effort by flexing the bootleg. As a result, ski handling is reduced.

The stiffer boots you buy, the easier it will be to handle your skis.

However, hard boots have a drawback: while riding, they can rub your feet, cause pain and swelling. Therefore, beginners are not advised to buy too stiff boots.

Sole type

ISO 5355 standard. Most ski boots (carving and sport) have this standard soles.

Touring (ISO 9523). Standard boot for ski touring or cross-country travel with ups and downs. These boots have a higher rubberized sole with a deep tread. Sometimes shoes are sold with interchangeable overlays that allow them to be used with regular bindings.

WTR (Walk to Ride) is the standard for freeride boots that require special WTR bindings. Some of these boots can also be used with Touring bindings.

Shoe width

The width of the last is the distance between the walls of the shoe at its widest point. Should match the width of your foot. As a rule, this parameter is indicated on the boot, and you can measure your foot right in the store or rental: usually there are special rulers there.

There are boots with adjustable last width. They indicate a range, for example, from 100 to 150 mm.

Remember: in boots that are too wide, you will not be able to fix your legs well, so it will be difficult for you to control the skis while skiing. Therefore, it is better to focus on numbers and not buy shoes that are too spacious.

Thermoforming

It is the ability of the boot to conform to the shape of your foot when exposed to heat.

In some boots only problem areas can be molded, in others the entire surface of the boot can be molded.

If the boots are marked Auto Fit, then they are thermoformed in the process of wearing, from the warmth of your feet. A few days of riding is enough for the auto-molded boots to adapt to your needs.

Walk around the store for 10 minutes before buying boots. So you will understand whether your shoes are shaking or not, they need thermoforming or it is worth trying on others.

Custom Fit shoes are designed to be hot formed with a special hair dryer. Hot molding is done in the store after trying on, if it seems to you that the shoe fits in size, but presses a little in some place.

First, the boot is warmed up with a hairdryer for about 10-15 minutes, then you put it on, fasten the clips and stand for about 10 minutes. Then remove and leave for at least an hour until the material hardens in the desired position.

Warming

Ski boots are insulated with down, wool and various synthetic materials, such as hydrophobic insulation 3M Thinsulate.

Unlike natural materials, synthetic materials have the ability to wick moisture away from the body, so you won't skate in sweaty socks. In this case, socks should also be made of synthetic material: it is better to leave cotton and woolen socks for other purposes.

How to choose ski boots for their intended purpose

1. Carving boots

These boots will suit you if you are going to ride exclusively on prepared slopes and only for pleasure. That is, you will not work on speed and technique, set personal records and get out of the track to ride on untouched snow.

Carving boots come in different hardness. For beginners, boots with a stiffness value from 60 to 100 are suitable, for progressive amateurs - from 100 to 130.

When choosing boots, do not pursue softness and comfort: in the store you will be comfortable, but on the track, when the skis are poorly controlled, this advantage will not seem so significant to you.

The outsole of carving skis is equipped with heels made of soft material. This allows you to comfortably climb stairs or walk on the floor, for example, if you are going to relax in a cafe.

The boot shafts typically have a 13-degree slope. There are four clips and a strap that provides additional fixation.

Pay attention to whether there is a canting adjustment knot on the inside or outside of the boot.

This knot allows you to adjust the boot to the anatomical features of the legs. For example, if you have X-shaped or O-shaped legs, adjusting the canting will allow you to tilt the boot so that your foot is straight on the ski.

In some models, the knot is located only on one side, in others it is both inside and outside. Two knots allow you to adjust the tilt of the boot more precisely.

2. Sports shoes

This is an option for more advanced skiers who plan to improve their skiing technique. Sports boots have maximum rigidity and absolutely smooth soles: they are uncomfortable to walk in, so they are not suitable for relaxing rest. These are boots for those who prioritize skiing, training or competition.

3. Universal boots

Such boots are suitable both for skiing on a prepared track, and for a small freeride (for example, when it snowed heavily and did not have time to clean it, or if the track is poorly prepared).

In general-purpose boots, you can change the angle of the boot to adapt them to new riding conditions. For example, on a hard slope, you can move the boot shaft forward to transfer the load to the socks, and on virgin soil, on the contrary, you can tilt the boot shaft back.

Also, universal boots are distinguished by rubber pads on the sole, with which it is convenient to walk on a hard surface.

And the last feature of the universal boots: they are warmer than sports and carving boots.

4. Boots for freeride

These boots are designed exclusively for off-piste skiing. They are equipped with three clips, the last one turned upside down: this design prevents the clip from opening when riding in deep snow. Freeride boots also have a wider strap.

Freeride boots switch to walking and riding modes. If you have to go uphill, you can loosen the stiffening of the boot, and when the need arises, put the boots back into downhill mode, providing the necessary stiffness to control the skis.

Also, freeride boots are very lightweight, well insulated and do not allow moisture to pass through.

5. Freestyle boots

Freestyle boots have a short shaft, three clip-fasteners and a thick cushioning sole that protects the foot from damage when jumping.

That's all. If you have tips on choosing alpine skis and equipment for them, write comments. And good luck on the slopes!