Is it worth doing keratin hair straightening

2024 Author: Malcolm Clapton | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-17 03:44

The life hacker figured out what the essence of the method is and what will happen to the hair later.

How does keratin hair straightening work?

Hair is almost entirely composed of the protein keratin. It also consists of the cuticle - a transparent armor in the form of tight-fitting keratinized scales, and the cortex - a thick core of the hair made of chains of amino acids.

The chains are held together and keep the shape of the hair through different bonds: hydrogen, ionic and disulfide. The latter are the strongest. They cannot be destroyed by water, ordinary shampoo and hairdryer - only alkali and high temperature.

The hair structure is set at the very beginning of its growth - in the hair follicle. If the bulb is straight and symmetrical, the amino acids will fix evenly and the hair will not frizz.

If the bulb is asymmetrical, the hair will be wavy.

Keratin straightening products help break some of these uneven disulfide bonds and restore them in a different position.

These formulations contain keratin taken from the wool of sheep and broken into small pieces, chemicals that release formaldehyde, and various silicones, like in hair balm.

Under the influence of heat and formaldehyde, alien keratin creates bonds with relatives and makes hair straight.

In addition, the high temperature seals the hair cuticle so that the keratin stays inside for a long time.

But formaldehyde is bad, isn't it?

It all depends on the quantity. The safe concentration of formaldehyde in the air is 0.05 mg / m³. At a level of 0.1 mg / m³, people who are sensitive to formaldehyde begin to burn in the eyes, nose and throat, coughing and nausea may appear.

High doses of formaldehyde harm the lungs, lower hemoglobin, disrupt the menstrual cycle, plant immunity, and can cause cancer.

True, most of the research was carried out in industries where the level of formaldehyde rose to 3-5 mg / m³. In beauty salons, the concentration reaches a maximum of 1.4 mg / m³.

This is much higher than the permitted standards, but if you breathe formaldehyde one hour every three to four months, most likely it will not affect your health in any way.

An exception is pregnant women. They are not recommended to do keratin hair straightening.

Is it possible to do without formaldehyde altogether?

It is forbidden. Without formaldehyde, sheep keratin will not be able to create strong bonds with the native hair protein, which means it will leave it faster.

Manufacturers love to write formaldehyde free on packaging. You will not find formaldehyde in such products, because:

• It is listed under a different name: Formalin, Formic aldehyde, Methanediol, Methanal, Methyl aldehyde, Methylene glycol, Methylene oxide, Paraform, Oxomethane, Oxymethylene, CAS Number 50-00-0.3.
• Formaldehyde is not there, but there are substances that release it when heated, for example, Timonacic acid (thiazolidinecarboxylic acid) or Oxoacetamide carbocysteine.

What happens during the procedure?

First, the head is washed with a deep cleaning shampoo with a high alkali content. The product washes away the remnants of your masks and balms and opens the hair cuticle.

After that, a keratin straightening compound is applied to damp hair for 30–40 minutes. Then the hair is completely dried with a hairdryer, and each strand is straightened several times with an iron heated to 180-230 ° C.

Then the strands are washed with a neutral pH shampoo and a mask or balm is applied. Wash them off and dry your hair again.

And the hair will not be damaged?

Straightening inevitably damages the hair structure: it breaks the disulfide bonds.

Some of these bonds are restored due to sheep keratin. And the cuticle scales, sticking out like an open bump, are sealed with an iron and polished with silicones and oils that are part of the product. The light bounces off the smooth surface and the hair shines like a shampoo ad.

But over time, the cuticle opens slightly, new disulfide bridges collapse and the acquired keratin is washed out.

Daria Kilina hair stylist, hair care expert

When keratin is washed out, the hair remains weakened and may break as the disulfide bonds are destroyed. Keratin straightening should be done regularly to keep your hair strong and beautiful.

The degree of damage to the hair depends on whether the master made mistakes.

What mistakes can a master make?

Pelageya Krigan founder of KERATIN SECRET studio, hair reconstruction master

Most often, masters incorrectly determine the degree of hair damage or do not diagnose at all.

Because of this, they choose the wrong ironing temperature and make a major mistake. Porous strands with severely damaged and protruding cuticles should not be straightened with a very hot iron. If you burn your hair at this stage, it will look worse after rinsing the keratin than before the procedure.

If the hair is thick, with a tight cuticle, you can use a higher temperature, otherwise little keratin will penetrate inside and the curls will remain.

In addition, the strands must be 100% dry before straightening. If the hairdresser does not dry the hair, the high temperature of the iron can severely damage its structure.

How long does the effect last?

It all depends on the quality of the procedure and further hair care. 24–72 hours after straightening, you must not wet your hair, tuck it into a ponytail, or use hairpins.

In the future, it is better to use sulfate-free shampoos or other mild skin care products.

We recommend either the sulfate-free shampoo of any professional series or the professional shampoo for colored hair. These products do not wash out keratin, gently cleanse the hair and are suitable for use after the procedure.

Pelageya Krigan founder of the KERATIN SECRET studio

If done correctly, hair stays straight and smooth for 3-4 months. The effect of subsequent procedures can last up to 6-8 months, because keratin accumulates in the hair.

What if I don't repeat the procedure?

If the procedure is carried out efficiently, after 3-4 months the hair will return to its previous state with minor damage. If the master burns the hair, after washing out the keratin, it will become worse.

Is keratin straightening expensive?

It all depends on the particular salon, the length and thickness of the hair. You can keep within 2,000 rubles, or you can spend more than 20,000.

Maybe then do it at home?

You can buy keratin straightening formulations at a professional cosmetics store, but it is almost impossible to straighten your hair well at home.

After all, you need to evenly apply the composition all over the head, retreating from the roots 2 cm. Then you need to straighten the strands several times with an iron, without missing any of them. To do this without outside help is like cutting out your appendicitis.

In the worst case, you can burn your hair, and after rinsing out the keratin, it will become a piece of tow.

In fairness, I must say that a bad master can do this, but in the salon you still risk less.

So should I do keratin straightening or not?

Yes, if you have thick curly hair and hate it. According to stylist Daria Kilina, it is better to do keratin straightening every six months than to spoil your hair with a hairdryer and curling iron every day and spend a lot of time on it.

But for people with weakened and bleached hair, it is better to refuse the procedure. High temperatures can damage the cuticle so that after the keratin is washed out, the hair will begin to crumble.

What can you do instead?

If you want to fix the dandelion problem rather than straighten the frizz, try other methods: moisturizing balms and masks, cuticle smoothers, or non-ironing salon treatments. The result will not be as noticeable and long-lasting as from keratin, but you will certainly not ruin your hair.

We do not treat the hair, but reconstruct its visible part, provide a neat look. Now there are many treatments in addition to keratin: botox, reconstruction, nanoplasty, cold recovery, scalp detox, many spa programs. To choose the right one, you need to consult with a specialist.

Pelageya Krigan founder of the KERATIN SECRET studio

If you need to straighten your hair and make it beautiful right now, as well as maintain the effect for a long time, there is no alternative to keratin straightening yet.